All Products Listed. Item #, Description, Price. ARRL-5916, BOOK, ARRL GET ON THE AIR-HF DIGITAL, 6016/1220, $22.95. ARRL-5919, BOOK, ARRL GENERAL CLASS LICENSE MANUAL, 0307, $29.95. ARRL-5920, BOOK, ARRL EXTRA CLASS LICENSE MANUAL, 0451, $29.95. ARRL-5934, BOOK, ARRL.

ERF-2030 Driver & Finals Conversion for RCI-6900F25 and RCI-2950 DX This application note describes how to substitute ERF-2030s for the discontinued Mitsubishi 2SC2166 and 2SC1969 RF transistors in the RCI-6900F25 and RCI-2950 DX 10 meter transceivers. The supplying of this information in no way holds EKL Components, or any of its members, responsible or liable for any damage incurred to person or property. This application note, or any other information, provided by EKL Components is to be used at YOUR OWN RISK. Required Parts: • 3pc • lpc • 2pcs • lpc 470K ohm, 1/4 Watt Resistor • 2pcs 33K ohm, 1/4 Watt Resistor 1) Remove Q60, Q61 and Q62. 2) Remove L27, L28 and L31. 3) Remove C223. 4) Install the three ERF-2030's at Q60, Q61 and Q62.

Install the ERF-2030's exactly the same way the 2SC2166 and 2SC1969's were installed, using all the SAME HARDWARE. 5) Install the EN-369DR at Q62. Install this part on the solder side of the PCB. IMPORTANT: Do NOT stress the leads of the EN-369DR by bending them too aggressively. Bend the leads carefully and make sure that they are as short as possible. • a) Solder the EN-369DR positive lead (marked +) to the gate pin of the ERF-2030 at Q62. • b) Solder the EN-369DR negative lead (unmarked) to the source pin of the ERF-2030 at Q62.

6) Install the EN-369FN's at Q60 and Q61. Install these parts on the solder side of the PCB. IMPORTANT: Do NOT stress the leads of the EN-369FN's by bending them too aggressively. Bend the leads carefully and make sure that they are as short as possible. • a) Solder the EN-369FN's positive lead (marked +) to the gate pin of the ERF-2030's at Q60 and Q61. • b) Solder the EN-369FN's negative lead (unmarked) to the source pin of the ERF-2030's at Q60 and Q61.

7) Install the 470K ohm resistor from the gate pin of the ERF-2030 at Q62, to the jumper wire located at L36. 8) Install a 33K ohm resistor from the gate pin of the ERF-2030 at Q60, to the hole at R275 that is closest to the front of the radio. 9) Install a 33K ohm resistor from the gate pin of the ERF-2030 at Q61, to the hole at R274 that is closest to the front of the radio. C4FM/FM 144/430 MHz - DUAL BAND 50 W DIGITAL TRANSCEIVER 50th Anniversary Limited Edition with New Features The successor to FT-897D? 50th Anniversary Limited Edition New Features!! Built-in GPS 2m/70cm con APRS GPS integrado y funcionalidad EchoLink 1200 Watt - 160-6 meter T-Mosfet Amplifier New Top-of-the-range HF/50MHz Transceiver Download This 'NEW' QRP transceiver silicon MOSFET technology to allow continuous 100% duty cycle operation in both CW and SSB modes 1500w PEP continuous output all modes *no time limit* VHF-UHF • • Wouxun • • • Marine Radio • • • • RECEPTORES • • • CB RADIO • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •.

Amps can seems slightly intimidating at first, but in reality they are simple once you get the gist of it. I have an AL-811. A couple of other hints: VERY IMPORTANT. Keep an eye on the GRID current meter!!!! 811A's cannot tolerate abuse of the grids.the plates can tolerate momentary over load. Know the maximum allowable currents for both the plate and Grid as stated in the Owner's Manual.

HEED the warnings in the Owner's Manual about using only SHORT periods to tune and a cooling off period in between. They are real. BE SURE to look in the side of the cabinet ( I have a mirror I keep in the shack for ease of observation) and check the tube COLOR. In some conditions, there can be a SLIGHT, dull orange glow.this will most likely occur on CW or DATA; this is harmless and normal.It is unlikely you will see much, if any glow of the plates on SSB if you are correctly tuned. A SLIGHT dull orange glow covering a part of the plates is NORMAL in some operating conditions (mainly CW). A bright orange or lighter color is a sign of potential damage!!

The tube plate is over heating. When you first start learning to tune it up, it is a very good idea to keep an eye on the plates. If you are badly mis tuned they will glow in a few seconds.

This is why you don't want to be 'key down' during tuning for more than a few second without a cool off period. You absolutely MUST have an output meter to correctly tune that amplifier because you tune for Maximum output. BE SURE to read W8JI's comments (W8JI.com) and instructions on the PROPER way to tune an amplifier. He is the expert on this amplifier. Resist the temptation to run the amp at full output.back it off a little and don't over drive it. You constantly hear signals on the air where some guy is over driving his amplifier and it splatters and is generally a 'nasty' signal. Handbook Of Textile Auxiliaries In Canada. You don't want to be part of that crowd.over drive will NOT make your signal stronger or better.to the contrary and it is usually hard on the tubes.

MAKE the time to learn a little about tube amplifiers. It can save you frustration or burned up components! Hard FACT: An 811A tube is RATED to put out 100 watts CW. So, a amplifier with 3 811A's cannot put out over 300 watts of output on CW without pushing the tubes beyond their ratings. That is not opinion, that is just the design spec's for 811A's. You may find that the amp will not tune the very low ends of the 80 and 160 M bands.

This seems to be common, there is not capacitance in the tank circuit to tune the very low ends of the low bands. The LOAD control will go to Zero and you cannot obtain a peak in output.

If you operate below this point the tubes will get very hot due to mistuning. If you don't operate CW this most likely will not be an issue. I operate mostly CW and had to add C to the tank circuit to get a proper tune on the low end of 80 and 160. You will find the control setting VERY critical (i.e. A little movement of the knobs produces large changes in tuning) on 15, 12 and 10 M. Tuning is generally quite broad on the lower bands.

Contrary to what Ameritron advertises, 811A's when pushed hard are fairly delicate! The are NOT 'tough'.

Give them a little tender loving care and they will be reliable. Bottomline: just take your time and use minimal drive (15 to 20 watts) until you get the hang of it. Make your tuning changes quickly for a few seconds, let it cool, and 're-tweak' and increase drive a little and do it again.and again till you get up to the desired output power. Make a CHART of the Tune and Load setting for various frequencies. Once you get the hang of it, it is a fun little amp and you can tune it very quickly.

73, K0ZN P.S. The control setting on my AL-811 were quite a bit different from what was 'suggested' in the manual. Don't be surprised if that happens. As long as you can find a 'peak' setting in the OUTPUT with both controls, you should be good to go. Hard FACT: An 811A tube is RATED to put out 100 watts CW. So, a amplifier with 3 811A's cannot put out over 300 watts of output on CW without pushing the tubes beyond their ratings.

That is not opinion, that is just the design spec's for 811A's. You better look again. RCA says about 160-200 watts per tube on CW ICAS output.

They rate a single 811 at 135 watts carrier on AM when plate modulated, so they will certainly take more than that with off-on keying. Old ARRL Handbooks agree. My Heath Warrior, and the Collins 30L1, both run 1 kW dc plate input on CW, which is about 600 watts or so output for 4 tubes on CW. That was the legal limit when the Warrior and 30L1 were designed.

You may find that the amp will not tune the very low ends of the 80 and 160 M bands. This seems to be common, there is not capacitance in the tank circuit to tune the very low ends of the low bands. The LOAD control will go to Zero and you cannot obtain a peak in output.

If you operate below this point the tubes will get very hot due to mistuning. If you don't operate CW this most likely will not be an issue. I operate mostly CW and had to add C to the tank circuit to get a proper tune on the low end of 80 and 160.

If that is a real problem it is easily correctable, but we MUST remember the loading control closes or meshes for peak output at reduced power. If you try to run 200-300 watts out, the loading control WILL wind up fully meshed. If you want to run reduced power, I would still load the amp to near full output then back off drive without retuning.

I'm going to revisit the AL811H next week and look at it. You may find that the amp will not tune the very low ends of the 80 and 160 M bands. This seems to be common, there is not capacitance in the tank circuit to tune the very low ends of the low bands.

The LOAD control will go to Zero and you cannot obtain a peak in output. If you operate below this point the tubes will get very hot due to mistuning. If you don't operate CW this most likely will not be an issue.

I operate mostly CW and had to add C to the tank circuit to get a proper tune on the low end of 80 and 160. I am having this problem on 40 and 80 into a dummy load or actual antenna on any part of the band. Anyone have any suggestions? Re: your comment below: 'RCA says about 160-200 watts per tube on CW ICAS output.

They rate a single 811 at 135 watts carrier on AM when plate modulated.,' Aren't those number from operating in CLASS 'C'? I would not think you could get that much out in a Linear class. Am I calculating this wrong? Assuming 65 watts of plate dissipation, and 65% efficiency. I get 100 Watts output..

I have an actual RCA sheet on the 811A. I will look at it again. (The unknown question is how close to RCA spec's are the Chinese tubes?!) What is your take on the acceptable and/or MAXIMUM level of 'glow' on the plates on an 811A?

Thanks & 73, Jon, K0ZN Logged. Start out with 20 watts of drive. Set the plate and load controls per the instructions. Your MFJ meter will do the job for now. You may want to upgrade that later.

Yes you need a dummy load. I use a Bird 1KW oil filled type.

The 500 watt one will work fine for this set up, but things change. Later you might end up with something that has more power. Key up and set controls for maximum output.

Yeah 20 seconds is plenty of time. If you don't get it the first try STOP, let things cool down and try again.

Once you get maximum output turn the drive up to 50 watts. That should give you close to 500 watts peak. Time to hook up the antenna.

Key down for a quick adjustment and you should be good to go. I have owned an AL-811 for 7 years now.

It's been road hard and put to bed wet the whole time. At 3 years the stock 811's started to go soft so I put in 3 new matched Taylor tubes. I have only had the cover off this amp 2 times.

Once to unpack it. The other to change the tubes. I know what the specs say on 811's But if you can kill one tuning up, and yeah I know It can be done, Then something is not right.Good luck. 73 DE K4XZ Logged. The AL-811 must be tuned at the maximum driver power to be used, not at 5 watts.

Tuning for maximum output power with low drive will under-load the amp when the driver power is increased. That is, the load impedance presented to the plate will be too high. The result is low efficiency, increased tube dissipation, higher grid current, and higher distortion.

Nothing good. After presets are found and recorded when returning to a band set LOAD and PLATE per the preset numbers, apply full driver power to be used (I.E. 50 watts) and touch up LOAD and PLATE for maximum power output.

WX7G I have read what you wrote many times and would not argue with what you wrote. I tune with 5 watts and advance the load slightly after using full drive power which normally gives me full output. If not, I do check both load and plate and adjust if required. I have never had a problem with my tuning this way but would not try to persuade others to use my method. You made a good point especially for persons just beginning to use an amp.

I do things now without remembering why. LOL I think W8JI would agree with you, but not positive, I just think he would. 73s Frank Logged.